Beware, and Celebrate, The Big Brush

Huron, SD is a mid-sized community (by South Dakota standards anyway) in east central SD.  It sits at the intersection of US Highway 14 and SD State Highway 37.  Before the advent of Interstate Highways 90 and 29 in SD, Huron was host to two of the major east-west routes across the state. Huron can trace its origins to the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad’s decision to make this town on the west bank o the James River as its Divisional Headquarters.  Years later when auto and truck traffic became central to economic growth, US Highway 14 was built going through Huron.   The giant Armour Meats had a packing plant in Huron, which also supported a significant stockyards and markets.  If you lived in the region, Huron was the retail center.  It’s where you went to the doctor and dentist.  It was (and is) the home to the South Dakota State Fair.  It was home to Huron College.  Add it all up, and it’s easy to see why Huron was a h0ppin’ place.  However, progress in the form of those interstate highways some 50+ miles to the south and east, the closing of the Armour plant and 550 jobs, the heavy hits doled out with the farm crisis in the early 80’s and a number of other circumstances hit Huron hard.

Since the Ancestral Manse in Forestburg in just 30 miles south, I venture up to Huron a handful of times every year. I have an addiction to farm and home stores and hunting for old junk, and those itches can get scratched a little there.  Beyond that, I’ll admit lately I’ve had few words of compliment for Huron.  Nothing personal, but every time I drive through Huron I sense its best days are in their rear view mirror.  The main street is wide, and there are buildings of a scale you don’t see in many other SD towns of similar size.  However, there’s emptiness everywhere.  Empty store fronts. A little dumpy in places.  An almost palpable absence of hope.  The sense isthat important things USED to happen here.  Mitchell, its neighbor some 50 miles to the south, bustling with new construction and vitality and straddling one of those interstate highways, has a big heartbeat you can feel as you drive through.   Huron feels like it needs a pacemaker, and would be wise to have the portable defib unit nearby and fired up in case today’s the day.  It’s unfair to compare the SD State Fair to the State Fair in Minnesota, but having worked around 60 days at  the Great Minnesota Get Together during my 6 years at KSTP it’s hard not to.  Not only doesn’t the Fair compare to Minnesota’s, it doesn’t compare favorably to the SD Fair 20, 50 even 100 years ago.  Ooo that smell.

I’m not the type to kick someone when they’re down.  I feel terribly guilty talking negatively about Huron or any town in South Dakota.  However, for better or worse, 38 years of trying to be a worthy member of the Fourth Estate means trying to stay honest with both criticism and praise, even when its been detrimental to my career and life. And honestly, the vibe isn’t great.

I was in Huron a couple of weeks ago.  I was downtown and as usual lamenting the general state of things.  I made my usual two stops, and as usual was wishing I didn’t feel like I was driving through a cemetery…  However, for some reason, instead of leaving town as quickly as possible, I turned west onto a downtown street (3rd Street SW). I normally don’t travel, and ran smack into things of immense beauty, hope, pride and energy. I stopped so quickly I would have caused a rear-ender…had there been another car on the block.

There before me was an immense and incredible hand-painted mural, full of antique race cars and their drivers. I had neither seen nor even heard of this huge work, nearly half a block long.  It’s not like it was a recent addition (1999) and is probably common knowledge to many reading this post. But it was new to me, and it was incredible.

The mural is on the side of the building housing Huron’s Sportsman’s Bar. (Note #1: The Sportsman’s is next to one of Huron’s gems, Manolis Grocery, maker of arguably the best deli sandwiches in SD.)  The half-block mural is full of antiquated open-wheel race cars from early in the 20th Century (see wholly inadequate pictures below).  The plaque details an historical event I had never heard of before but now am excited to find our more about:  The Great Race of 1913.  It featured 30 dangerous machines and determined pilots on a 110-mile race to De Smet and back, ending at that very spot.  Who knew???  The mural is painted in the sepia tones common to photos of the era.  Early photography always makes me feel like life was black-and-white up until after WWII.  What color were these cars, and what colors were the drivers wearing?

As I turned around, headed back to the GMC I looked up, and there across the parking lot was ANOTHER half-block long mural!  This one depicted the era of the Land Rush in 1882 when what is now Huron was first opened up for white settlement.  (Note #2: One man’s land rush is another native man’s loss of his entire world, and I understand and respect the conflict.  We’ll talk about that in future posts).  This 2001 rendering uses more color than its neighbor down the street, but is limited to muted and coolish blues, grays and browns.  The descriptive plaque notes a restoration of this mural in 2007.  Where the Great Race mural down the street references speed, danger and adrenaline, the Land Rush mural features moods from the very intimate between the couple with the pioneer-style wagon to the chaotic rush outside the land office (see more wholly inadequate photos below).  Both murals are first-rate, full of flare, evident of talent and moving…and uniquely Huron.

As I drove back south to the ‘Burg, I thought a lot about those murals.   I also thought a lot about my current attitude towards Huron.  Yes, the negative evidence suggesting Huron’s best days are behind her is still there.  And yes, Huron is still not on my personal list of Top 10 Places to Live in SD.  However, it revived in me something significant and important.  It reminded me there is beauty in nearly anything IF you take the time to look for it and are open to it when you find it.  As the ride home continued, I was also reminded the same sentiment holds for situations and events, and most importantly for people.  Yes there are places, feelings, opinions and people who have buried what little good is in them so deep it may never surface no matter how hard you look for it.  Those are (thankfully) the exception rather than the rule.  It also reminds me there are different kinds of beauty, and just because something doesn’t fit my idea of beauty doesn’t mean it isn’t beautiful.

There will always be ignorance and closed minds. There will always be those who are quick to judge anything or anyone who is different.  There will always be those who see someone else’s open mind as a weakness to exploit.  There are significant times in my life (some recent) where people have used  my open-mindedness and trust against me at significant cost.  Maybe that makes me naive, or foolish, or even stupid.  Yes, an open mind can come back to hurt you.  However, it can also foster innovation, growth and greater good.   As the New Year arrives, I’m still going to keep the Big Stick within reach, but try to more often look for the beauty in places and people first.  If beauty is in the eye of the beholder, we needs as many quality beholders as we can round up.


If you find any value worth sharing in this or other posts on this blog, please forward them to your friends, family and colleagues.  If you’d like to automatically receive new posts the minute they go up, please click on “follow” below. If you have constructive criticism, please send it to me because I want to get better.   I am currently in a “career transition”, looking to get back to my creative roots, and sharing this work may put in the hands of someone who could use my help.  Also, any employment leads you might have and are willing to share would be most appreciated.  Thanks!


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